I wonder when this change was made? Maybe I’ll take a magnet with me next time I go brush shopping.įYI, All my brass colored ones have rust spots.5 Best Paintbrushes for Cabinets + Brush vs. I’ve had those for 15-20 years and they are my favorite nylon bristle brushes. In response to Raoul’s post above, I have some Purdy brushes with copper ferules (1″ and 2.5″). I just make sure to brush in one direction to avoid damaging the bristles. For stubborn paint stuck on bristles near the ferule, or on the handle, I use a small, stiff nylon brush or sometimes stainless brush. It really speeds up the cleaning as it allows better water (or solvent) flow through the bristles. You end spending much more than the cost of the brush in wasted paint and time, not to mention the aggravation and all the drips and splatters you get with cheap brushes).Īlso, if you don’t have a brush comb, get one. I learned that long time ago while painting the trim on my house. Once you paint with a high quality brush, you kick yourself for not trying earlier. I can also show you some corroded purdys though they are no where near as bad as the Woosters. I think I have your email address saved somewhere but you can send me yours again if you want and I’ll be sure to send them. I will try to send you pictures tomorrow so keep a look out for them if you’re interested. I think you’ll find the level of rust on my brass colored Woosters interesting. I used the use the pro firm lindbeck that I referenced in the above post but have switched to the extra firm. I paint almost everything with a 3″ or 2 1/2″ and stiff brushes are a must for modern paint. This is more of a problem on bigger brushes so you might not notice so much with the 1″ brush. When the new paint standards came into effect a few years ago it made soft brushes obsolete. I am not aware that they were ever changed but they were originally designed for the old paint standards that were thinner, easier to work with, and had higher voc’s.
I tend to just pull used ones off and trash them – but I seldom do any house painting – other than touch up – any more – preferring leaving big jobs to the pros.Īside from the rusting issue, another bad thing about these colored ferrule brushes by Wooster and Purdy is they are very soft. The mineral spirits get the varnish off – then the lacquer thinner gets the oily mineral spirits off – then its soap and water again.įor roller covers – I have to admit that I’m not very green. I also like to use lacquer thinner after mineral spirits for cleaning brushes used for oil-based varnishes and paints.
Clean in lacquer thinner – then the soap and water treatment. Denatured alcohol is the solvent – and can be followed by sudsy ammonia and/or the soap and water treatment.įor lacquer brushes – there are modern lacquer thinners that are less dangerous than things like MEK, acetone, toluene or xylene that were used in the past – but I still use them outside the house in a well ventilated area. Some folks never clean shellac brushes – because the next immersion in fresh shellac will soften the dried brush. The dried brush should be stored in the sleeve that it came in when new – or if not available – then use some heavy brown paper tied with string to create a sleeve. Shaking, spinning or beating the brush (as artists sometimes do against the easel) can help get the residual water out. Be sure in all cases to get a good soap lather up at the final step, use a brush comb if necessary to get all the finish out up to the ferrule and then rise and dry thoroughly. Kman’s soap and warm water treatment can be a good final step even for shellac, lacquer or oil-based paint and varnish brushes. For some other finishes – I pick a badger hair brush with so called flowing ferrule, or perhaps an ox-hair brush.įor waterborne finishes – I’m back to a Purdy nylon brush.īTW – Whistler makes lots of brushes for faux finishing: These are for traditional varnish and are made of hog’s bristles. To be honest I don’t recall what brand of brushes his painters used – but I might look the next time I have them over to paint at my place.įor me – finishing furniture that I’ve made – I’ve tried Purdy natural bristle brushes – but am partial to some old oval varnish brushes branded Luco (Leo Uhlfelder Co.) and some branded Whistler (Pennellificio Omega Spa.). We had a painting subcontractor that always got high praise from our clients. I think that the painters like Sata guns. In the cabinet shop – we did our finishing in a spray booth – usually a catalyzed lacquer or varnish – sometimes paint – depending on the customer.
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